Wednesday 24 February 2010

Jewellery at London Fashion Week AW10

Sunday just gone, with a pass flung around my neck, I braved LFW's Exhibition at Somerset House to check out what will be going on with who in jewellery this autumn/winter. I had an idea of who I wanted to see before getting there (Joanna Cave, especially, who I've been meaning to write about for ages!), and of course saw a few surprises along the way. Sadly I wasn't  able to take snaps of everything - fair enough, some collections won't be launched until September - so hopefully my words will justify the excitement and awe felt in the hour and ten minutes I had to do my rounds in! There's a lot of images... It's going to be a long one!

Click on the photos for much bigger versions!

 
London's Somerset House - photo from a tale of a few cities


Bjorg

I first saw Bjorg's jewellery in Bloomsbury, Bath, when I was home for the weekend about a year ago. An unusual silver hare ring caught my eye, with its brown diamond eyes and the way the ears ran the length of my finger. At LFW there were some pretty and - as Bjorg's style is - quirky treats on show; rough-cut stone necklaces that looked like lipsticks, long necklaces with wolves' and ravens' heads, and that hare ring. With designs which look to 'find beauty even in imperfections' Bjorg's jewellery is set to wow the UK in the coming year, and why not? 

 
Silver, Oxidised and Gold Plate rings by Bjorg

  
 Stone (possibly Tsavorite and Rose Quartz) 'Lipstick' Necklaces in Yellow and Rose Gold Plate, by Bjorg

 Wolf and Rabbit Head Necklaces in Gold Plate and Silver, by Bjorg


Joanna Cave

Serene and talented, Joanna Cave is a kindly soul whose jewellery I've coveted since first seeing it in EC One back in early 2008. Trained in the UK, and presently based in Athens, Joanna's Grecian roots are palpable in her quirky, somewhat ancient-feeling jewellery. Moving from the simple structural designs of last year, this year's collection has taken a step towards something else.  Now using only recycled metals, the new collection is romantic and Arabesque; detailed cut-out earrings, star shapes and the use of rose gold-plate. Each element has added another facet to Joanna's style. 'Pretty' doesn't quite do justice to her collection; offbeat and versatile it definitely is. The smooth matt finishes give Joanna's pieces a feel of their own - they sit close to the skin and do  just what jewellery should - make you feel beautiful and adorned without the ostentation.

 
Joanna Cave, with her jewellery

 Silver Star Necklace in Rose and Yellow Gold Plate

Oxidised Silver Star Hoops and Prudencia Gold Plated cut-out Earrings

Pilar Hook Earrings in Yellow and Gold Plate (top) and open Heart Hoops

 
Brioni Hoops in Silver, with white pearls

Fish Necklaces (with pearl 'bubbles') in Yellow Gold Plate, Silver and Rose Gold Plate

 
Pilar Silver Ring (love this!!)

Novia Bangles with Carol Necklace in Yellow Gold Plate and Silver (centre)


Zoe & Morgan

So, of course no trip to LFW would have been complete without a little 'hello' to Zoe & Morgan. It was also a good excuse to catch up with Hannah, my darling friend who works for Z&M as a personal shopper (get her!). Looking as fabulous as expected (Hannah included), the Z&M display was mirrors, antique glass and more mirrors - so it was pretty hard to snap the jewellery without ending up with me grinning in the background (as below..!). Nevertheless, it was great to see collections I've been viewing online up 'til now, in the flesh. And also good to try some bits and pieces on! The Rabbit in the Hat necklaces and Geometric collections (the latter inspired by Jem & the Holograms) were a highlight, as was trying on some of Z&M's more precious, stone-set rings. I'm sure you're starting to notice this little skull obsession too?

 
Geometric Earrings and Necklaces, in Gold Plate and Silver

 Hope & Anchor and Love Necklaces from the Who Loves Wins collection 

 
 Rabbit in a Hat Necklaces - just in time for the Alice in Wonderland film!

9ct Gold Skull Ring set with Sapphires (along with my Nana's ring and Labradorite Nugget ring by Monica Vinader)

 
Rings from the Fine Collection by Zoe & Morgan


 
Top and above: Chrysophrase-set rings in yellow gold

Hannah modelling the Princess Skull Ring, set with Amethyst and Diamonds

If you're still reading, good on you!! Other Exhibition highlights were the AW10 collection from Tatty Devine, which sadly I couldn't take photos of, but - be ready - will include pieces perfect for your inner line-dancer, firework-inspired beauties and rings, brooches and necklaces with a nod to a certain Magritte painting
Fiona Paxton also has some absolutely dazzling necklaces and collars lined up, with bronzes, steel blues, silvers and greys. Futuristic and historically-inspired all in one look!
Swedish designers Renaissance Life also had some fun, oversized silver pieces including a fabulous Russian Doll necklace which did as it should - revealed another - but also contained a gorgeous silver heart necklace in the middle. Definite ones to watch, too!

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